Saturday, April 20, 2013

LOVING THE VISIT, BUT I COULD NEVER LIVE HERE



            I have little to report today. (But every one of my friends knows that won't result in the blog entry being any shorter.) As I mentioned yesterday, we are no longer fighting for position among the teams. We're just enjoying the places, performing enough of the scavenges to be awed by the land and want to come back. There is no "voting off" of people here or we probably would have been eliminated at LAX. Everyone gets to finish the competition, visiting all 11 countries in 23 days. The rules ensure that you don't turn the adventure into tourist stops, and they are therefore difficult. For instance, you cannot locate anything with high tech -- no use of iphones, ipads, internet, etc. You can't use hotel concierges, professional drivers or tour guides. In fact, you can use a single cab driver for only two scavenges per nation. The goal is to force you to interact with the people of the countries and not be divorced from them via third party intermediaries. The policy is laudable while simultaneously being irritating.

            Most of the time, we have plane tickets that the event directors, Bill and Pamela (not Pam) purchased months in advance to take us from one spot to another. Several times during the event, though, we are asked to get ourselves somewhere -- on our own. We are the midst of one of those. Those of you who know Casey and me can already see this as a recipe for potential (if not assured) disaster. I can't even get socks on my feet without my support staff's assistance and Casey is too easily distracted by...well, everything. About the only place to which we're qualified to get ourselves is a county jail. And I don't relish the notion of lingering in an Asian holding tank where I doubt AC is a particularly high priority. Several days ago, we were told to get from the Caravelle Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam to The Plantation (hotel) in Phnom Penh, Cambodia for a single day of scavenges, then from Phnom Penh to the Heritage Suites (hotel) in Siem Reap, Cambodia for a "defriefing" at 10 a.m. the next day. We had less than 48 hours notice of the need to make these travel plans. Um, excuse me, but if I called my travel agent and told her to make reservations in a foreign nation on less than two days notice, she would respond, "Now, Erik, we've talked about such nonsense ad nauseum and, I thought, resolved it years ago." (Well, she might have substituted certain unmentionable street lingo for the Latin phrase I used.) And there's a kick: we can't hire a driver, take a plane or take a cab. Casey, of course, wanted to buy a moped and have me hold on while he whipped through the streets and countryside. As you can imagine, I squelched that suggestion rather quickly.

            Bill created this "get there on your own" thingy right smack in the middle of the Khmer New Year celebrations, when people are traveling to Cambodia to party. (I never thought I'd be typing those words, but this would be a great place for a grand party.) I have no doubt that this decision was intentional. (Bill is a marvelous person, and I have no doubt would be the first to arrive on the scene to perform CPR, but he does seem to have a tiny bit of a sadistic streak.) Of course, the other teams, whom you've already seen before -- they were machines in The Matrix movies -- got their reservations within minutes of Bill's announcement. Without Ann Erickson, Amanda or April here, I, of course, put off the planning until I saw Bill in the hotel late in our Vietnam jaunt and he implied, in a very subtle way, that I might have waited a bit too long. I then rushed to the phone and the 10th bus line I called finally had tickets -- for 2 p.m. (it's a six-hour-plus trip). So, we performed additional scavenges in Vietnam on Friday morning and got here late in the evening. We leave tonight at 10:30 p.m. on another bus line for yet another six-hour trip to Siem Reap. We'll arrive at the hotel around 5:30 a.m. Sunday and then meet with the event director (Bill) at 10 a.m. to report all the scavenges we did in Siem Reap. I haven't checked the list the scavenges for that locale thoroughly, but unless any of them involve dream weaving, I believe our meeting will be very short. Of course, our competitors (except that we're really no longer competing) somehow managed to get bus tickets for both trips at 7 a.m. so they had plenty of time for scavenges in their destinations -- but bear in mind that they all did so using no advanced technology whatsoever because that would break the rules (umh, hmm -- and I own a thousand acres of swampland in Cambodia I'd like to....).

            I LOVED the bus ride. And I never thought I'd type those words either. Having been poor most of my life (only recently being catapulted into a position where I could even consider a trip like this), I have traveled on many a Trailways bus. (You may not know this but I have a claim to fame. I hold the record for identifying the most suspects on "America's Most Wanted" just from my travels on Trailways.) My relationship with Trailways is so strong that whenever we passed a Motel 6, the driver slows down and the motel proprietor always waves back to me. (I think my photo actually adorns several Motel 6 and Regal 8 lobby walls in the Deep South -- it's right above the box where the keys to the television sets for which you pay extra are located).

            The people on the Ho Chi Minh city to Phnom Penh bus were awesome. Kind, friendly. No animosity toward us, even as Casey demonstrated just how "American" he can be. I foolishly thought it would be nice to shop in the Duty-Free Shop before the trip. I bought a large tin of Almond Roca, one of my favorite candies. I thought this was a treat many of the Asians may not have experienced. Casey bought a large bottle of Maker's Mark and a 12-pack of Heineken which I think are treats that everyone not from a Mormon compound has enjoyed. I passed out the candy when we exited from and returned to the bus after leaving Vietnam, and one minute later when we exited from and returned to the bus after entering Cambodia. (The formalities of country exit and entry will apparently always be absurd.) The bus riders loved my generosity (which really involved no sacrifice on my part -- the tin was all of $15 (which, of course, is a small amount given that it is just 300,000 Vietnamese dongs -- no pun intended). And the people in the back of the bus were thrilled by Casey's more adult contribution to their ride. In any event, by the time we got to the hotel, Casey was in another world and several of our co-travelers of the scavenger hunt noticed that. My sincere apologies to our compatriots. He usually only gets that way once a trip and should be fine for the duration.

            OK, we're about to go on some scavenges in Phnom Penh. I want to see the skulls. I want to see the prison. I know I'll be depressed afterward ("The Killing Fields" affected me for years), but I must see them. Additionally, we'll do the mandatory food challenges (they involve a pate sandwich and foie gras -- YUM! -- sorry, Sherry and company). Then, we'll do the "adult beverage" challenge (of which Bill always has several -- a man after my own heart). Then, the boat ride and, tomorrow morning, the sheepish look as I explain why we (probably) did nothing in Siem Reap. (We may be the first duo voted off the continent ever in this competition.)

            So, back to the title of this blog. Why could I never live here? First, the heat and humidity. They're miserable. I weigh 2,000 pounds. I sweat just thinking about opening a door to the outside. The heat has me after "Hello." I'm ready to shower then. Second, the driving all over Asia would not allow me to perpetuate my life beyond a few days. Y'all know I can't drive. I have $500,000 in auto insurance precisely because I know that, fully sober, I could kill an entire clan of people driving multiple vehicles (some in different cities) at any time. (Haven't done so yet -- knock on wood!) The people here -- China, Vietnam, Cambodia -- drive as though every day could be their last. There are very few stop lights. And where they are stop lights, the lights are ignored. The mopeds (which outnumber cars 30 to one) drive wherever and whenever they want. The car drivers, who seem to think running a moped off the road is a sporting event, likewise ignore driving rules. I'm surprised there is anyone left alive in this land. We should call it "The Killing Roads."






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